||[Jan. 30th, 2005|06:29 pm]
I haven't posted anything in months on here, and for that I apologize. However, most of the sewing I've been doing recently has been contemporary clothing, as I am about to start a job requiring office wear, and I don't have much in the way of nice professional clothing. So, I made some.|
This is not a Venetian gown update, but instead a Campi gown update! I started an Italian peasant gown several months ago, inspired by the paintings by Vincenzo Campi, and also by the lovely Italian working class gown over on that ever-so-helpful Festive Attyre site.
I wanted a simple, cheap but relatively authentic peasant gown that I could wear on hot summer days, and also on camping events. My goals were: a)keep it cheap, b)make it look authentic, c)make it be comfortable and cool. I decided on going with cotton instead of the period choices of wool or linen mostly because making a gown out of real wool or linen would blow my budget right out of the water.
Here are my two main inspirational pictures, both by Vincenzo Campi:
The Fishmongers, 1580's
The Fruitseller, 1580's
The gown is most like the Fishmonger woman in design, with a very similar moss green color cotton, with heavier weight black cotton twill guards. I include the second picture because of the details of her chemise cuffs. I already own a chemise very similar to hers, and not having to make a new one will also keep my cost down.
I finished the last details on the bodice last night, namely finishing and attaching the shoulder straps at the top. View:
The bodice is self-lined, with a single layer of canvas for interlining. The guards are sewn down by hand (gasp!) as I didn't want any machine topstitching showing. I also plan to add one, possibly two, more guards at the hem, and we'll see if I'm dediated enough to also handsew those. The bodice is front closing with a simple ribbon. I took a page from the wonderful Festive Attyre's Jen, and used a ribbon to create a way to spiral-lace the bodice. I simpled sewed down a ribbon at intervals to each side of the edge, and the intervals allowed 'holes' through which to lace a second, smaller ribbon to hold the bodice closed. View:
You can also see the boning channels, two per side, in this photo. Campi's Fishmonger obviously has little to no stiffening in her bodice, but some other Campi paintings just as distinctly show some. Much less than any noble gown, though, these women had to be able to move! I used cable ties (for cheapness!) and only used enough to give me some shaping and support, but not give me a conical shape. There is quite a distinct curve when I wear the bodice, so it looks to be just enough.
Hopefully, I'll get the skirt attached to the bodice tonight. I've already marked the intervals for the soft cartridge pleating, and I'll attach it directly to the bodice. I've never had to gauge a skirt to attach it to a bodice with a point before, and I'm a bit unsure how it will work. We'll see.