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Found it! [Jul. 21st, 2005|03:32 pm]
I knew I'd run across the link sometime soon!

I got my patterns for both chemise and drawers at Elizabeth Stuart Clark. They're both very easy patterns to draft, as you are just applying your own measurements to rectangular and trapezoidal shades, but I have a few suggestions for each.

For the CHEMISE:
1) The sleeve is cut on a fold, with the folded edge being the one that runs vertically down the outside of your arm. That means that your bicep measurment, the one that determines the size of the sleeve opening edge, needs to be halved, since the fold will double it otherwise. It doesn't tell you this in the directions.

2) You need to hem the bottom of the sleeve before you flat-fell the underarm seam closed. Also, not mentioned in the directions.

For the DRAWERS:

The major problem I had with the drawers was length. I added 4 inches for tucks to the length, plus 2 for the hem at the bottom. The pattern drafting tapers from a very wide, rectangular crotch and thigh area down to a narrower rectangular calf area. The pattern allows for the tuck length (each tuck takes 1 inch of fabric) at the bottom to take place on a square section, but does not tell you to allow this square section to be long enough to accomodate the space in BETWEEN the tucks. Thus, to get my tucks to all be straight and flat, with no gathering, I had to leave off one tuck, and make my hem smaller. This is what made the drawers so long initially, and also why I think the bottom pulls a little strangely instead of hanging straight.

This errors, in hindsight, are very easily corrected, and I will use these patterns again! Just chalk the first time up to the trial run.

I will eventually make a hoop and corset for this gown, though the first time through I'll just wear it with stays. Victorian-era corsets, though intimidate me. Does anyone have any good sites or patterns they have used, and would recommend? I would like more of a true, hour-glassy shape than you can get from fabric store commerical patterns like Butterick or Simplicity.